KALIMBA FARM

View Larger Map The morning began with bucketing rain and everything was awash, making me think that it was here to stay for the day. By 11 a.m. it was a changed place and all thoughts of rain disappeared. 

The red dirt track leading to the Kalimba croc farm was drying out fast as the old taxi bounced and lurched on every bump. Somehow it made it to the gates of the 'farm'. Tyres and shoes had to be disinfected at the gate for some reason. http://thebestofzambia.com/kalimba-reptile-park/

This sizable chameleon wasn't looking very camouflaged in one of the snake pits, blissfully unaware of the danger lurking below.    

A bush full of egrets are amongst the most common birds in the area.






The best thing about this trip out was that it was feeding time for the crocodiles that came in all sizes.

This handsome fellow looks almost friendly with his untidy rows of teeth.

This must be one of the smelliest jobs. After many hours I can still smell the stench coming off the rotting chicken carcasses as the keeper tossed handfulls over the wall to the waiting crocs. For the big crocs, a chicken is no more than a tiny snack. 

LUSAKA , HEADING HOME SOON

Lusaka is no different from when I left it but not such a sociable place as before. The crew I met at Paseli Hostel so long ago have mostly moved on to another African country while a few have returned for a Christmas at home. 

While many Zambians still go to the crowded teeming markets in the city, an increasing number are heading out to the modern shopping malls on the outskirts, which are not unlike any mall found in developed countries. Its strange that Zambia is still one of the poorest countries where this kind of shopping phenomena first appeared only five or six years ago. 

Christmas decorations at the Manda Hill mall are not exceptional but all the same the giant snowballs look a bit lost here in the heat of Africa. Had coffee and some food here last night with two Australians from Paseli, Michael and Amy. 

I am sure that these names are recognizable to some. 

Not sure that Wimpy even exists any more in Britain. I remember this burger place before the dominance of McDonalds took place.

And even Spar is here. A few others like Subway are here too. 

The  signs are that Africa is on the move. 

Pity the internet is not so reliable as I sit here this morning up at Manda Hill mall where the wifi is working. 




On Monday I take off for home, back to the winter.

LUSAKA AGAIN

Jollyboys is far away now and its back to the peace and tranquility of Paseli Hostel. The 8 hour bus trip with Shalom bus company will, for now, go down in history as one of the most unenjoyable bus journeys in my history. The large bus was a normal width had been fitted with an extra line of seats, making 2 on one side and 3 on the other. Consequently the seats could only be comfortable for a school outing for 12 year olds. 

But back at Jollyboys last night I found some locals playing this Zambian game called isolo. Two stones are put into each dish and the idea, like drafts, is to take all your opponents stones. The board is made from two carved pieces of hard wood and hinged down the centre. Can get quite noisy.

So at Paseli another family dinner was had with all the cooking done by the guests and Miriam, the host, doing the washing up. She had to wash up because there'd be no dishes or plates for breakfast in the morning. That would never do.

A new American member of the fraternity sitting on the right provided the ice cream for afters. What a pleasant way to finish an arduous day. 

BIG GAME MORNING

The last day here in Livingstone and its a fresh cloudy day with sunshine. Quite a change from what I have been getting used to. 

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park

Had to get up really early for a game drive in the small game park (660 sq km), which apparently isn't big enough to keep lions. They'd make quick work of the prey in such a small area. Stan, the guide was very informative and knew a lot about the animals and birds we saw. Though it was early it was a perfect time to be out in the game park.    

http://www.safpar.com/gamedrives.html

And now a short movie of this morning's action.

The drive lasted nearly three hours so there was ample time after to have a late breakfast and get down to Barclay's bank to change money and then buy a bus ticket to Lusaka with Sharom bus company again. 

Its very hard to believe that Christmas is only a week away.

HIPPOS AND RAIN

14^th December 2013

Reception girls in their funny hats

The internet connection here in Livingstone is troublesome but I hope this makes it through to the WW Web.

The Falls

It seems that all the talk here at the hostel is about going to the Devil's pool. Its well documented on Youtube so no need to explain too much. I was to have done the 'walk' to this pool on the edge of the falls but decided better not to do it. The past few days rain have made water levels rise so the walk has become a really a precarious 45 minute wade through fast flowing rivulets making their way to the edge of the falls not so far away. Some people did it but said it did seem very dangerous. The guide said, reassuringly, that the route to the pool was bone dry a few days ago, adding that if the water continues to rise this activity will have to be cancelled for the months of the wet season in two days time.

Rain at Victoria Falls entrance

 

'The smoke that thunders'

A couple of days ago I went on a sunset cruise down the Zambezi. It was a fun trip with free food and booze and a chance to see a lot of hippos, crocodiles, and luckily an elephant swimming across the river from the Zimbabwe side. Towards the end of the two and a half hours a couple of African marimba players struck up and the whole compliment of the boat, mostly Africans, ended the evening with dancing to the music. A nice evening. 

Lady Victoria cruise boat

Hippos are very big here

A crocodile waiting for a meal

The elephant heading for the river.

The wet season has begun late, with a vengeance, and now after 4 days of sporadic torrential downpours it is a different place from when I first arrived in Zambia. The humidity has brought on a rather irritating itchy heat rash but hopefully the medication I bought from a pharmacy here will calm it down soon. The rain does tend to restrict activities but lots of interesting people to talk to. One of them, now gone to Namibia, was an Irish motorcyclist with a massive BMW bike. Ridden all the way from Ireland and heading to Cape town.

LUSAKA TO LIIVINGSTONE

10^th December 2013

Its time to move on after too many days of the idyllic lifestyle I have grown accustomed to at the wonderful Paceli hostel. One piece of luck was that two Australian girls were heading to the bus station at the same time as myself and of course I had to pay only a third of what I was expecting for the taxi. Its probably the only safe way of getting somewhere on time.

For some strange reason I cant access photos to load onto this blog so have put them on my Facebook. sorry

It was the first time I had used an African bus station and not a lot different from the Indian variety or a typical European one on a very bad day. The place was in turmoil and it looked like the bus would never be able to get out through the seething mass of vehicles that packed every space. However, the bus started to move exactly on time at nine thirty and it was obviously well organized chaos for we exited the station in only five minutes.

There were several police check points just after leaving Lusaka and for some reason the axle weight of all buses and trucks was weighed. But the worst part was that the air-conditioning was not on and the temperature outside was about thirty six degrees. The bus was pretty new so it was most probably to conserve fuel like all the taxis in Lusaka do. Whatever the reason, it became uncomfortably hot and sticky during the seven hour journey. In this part of the world it has become clear that seven hours is just a training run. Along the often newly (Chinese) tarmacked road, it passed by many small grass roofed settlements and some of those famous red dust African roads.

MANDELA AND THE SUNDAY MARKET

Still in Lusaka but not much longer. The days go by and staying at the Paceli Hostel could become a bit of a habit. There is one major reason for not travelling much which is the cost of anything to do with tourist activities, so reserving my resources for when I get to Livingstone in a couple of days time. Also, it is apparent that to do a lot of this part of Africa, a lot of time and money is required. Most of the people here are seriously long term travellers or doing some sort of work. Anyway, with people like Miriam running the place, and lots of interesting friendly folk,  it makes a static situation very pleasant. Here is Miriam with her 19 month old cute little charmer. 


Today is Sunday and the Sunday craft market is open. African crafts such as ebony elephants, rip off rhinos wooden face masks are in abundance. 

I quite liked these small wire bicycles with the colourful riders. Maybe when I return here next week I'll get one.

The prices of these batique materials seemed considerably lower that in Europe. I suppose that's normal but a long way to go for a bargain!







After the market we headed off for the mall about half way between the market and the hostel. With the death of Madiba last week, its been top of the news, not only in SA but also all of Southern Africa. The mall doesn't have a multiplex cinema but at least its a new modern one surrounded by coffee shops, a Wimpy, and shops selling all the latest street fashions. Africa???
But that's what we did, three of us went to see 'Long Walk to Freedom'. Not a bad movie but maybe Richard Attenborough, bless the old darling, would have made a much better job of it. 

CATERPILLARS & CURRY

Doing nothing has always been one of my greatest aspects so with nothing to do, this short movie clip materialized from the last night's culinary experience.

A couple of the lads have just gone out to reserve a table at a nearby restaurant so it looks like another food experience is in store later on. Hopefully, it'll rain again this evening and adjust the temperature to a pleasant level, hopefully.

RAIN, BUS TICKET AND WHEELBARROWS

The Paseli Pool team were in action last night while the rain drummed on the car port roof. Algerian, Indian, German and a person of doubtful origin.

The rainy season should have begun a month ago but it has been late. The heat of the first days abruptly changed yesterday evening with several heavy showers. The change was a joy and I slept through the night without the any restlessness. Breakfast in the compound yard with a couple of African agricultural specialists from the copper belt in the north. Interesting chat about the problems of storing farm produce.

Its been a pleasant sociable day with two of the pool team. We walked down to the city, again for me, and did a few things like changing money. Lusaka has its shabby side and this street more than meets that description. Pi... Alley perhaps?

Crossing the railway bridge, heading towards the bus station, I spotted the origin of some of the market porter's barrows. They are converted from wheelbarrows and fitted with a car wheel. Walking through the crowded market could be dangerous with these heavily loaded barrows crashing into your legs. I have had one slight collision and a scratched arm already.

We decided to try a lunch in a swanky hotel. The outside dining area beside a swimming pool was rather nice and quite a contrast from the events of the previous couple of hours. But even here the cost of an excellent meal and drinks costs only about £5. 

Anyway, the main objectives of the amble were achieved which means that I now have a bus ticket to Livingstone (Tuesday) and also a bag of dried black caterpillars that Miriam is going to cook. If they seem a little too unpalatable we will have Rajish's (Indian) contribution to fall back on. I think it might be an eventful dinner tonight. 

MARKET MANIA

Sleeping was difficult last night with the heat and an accompanying ferocious headache. After making some tea at about 3 in the morning, and talking to Emanuel on night reception, things improved slightly with the room door open and the mosquito net firmly in place. 

Breakfast time is very civilized at a table in the back yard. Scrambled eggs, toast, cornflakes, all plentiful and served up by Miriam, the daytime receptionist. Very nice girl, always has a smile on her face. 

And then down to the market near the centre of Lusaka with some guys from the hostel. At this point in the day it was pleasantly warm but as the time went by the temperature began to rise, making us think it was time to get back to the hostel. We did some of the trip in a minibus taxi, crushed in like sardines. But during the wanderings around the vast market saw plenty of the goods and more interestingly the people.

This guy was selling some kind of grilled sausages but proud of his dyed fashionable hair. 






Now the dried caterpillars that many people love to eat here. Miriam said she likes only the black ones which are first soaked in salty water, then fried. What could be simpler? Lovely!

CONTRASTING AIRPORTS AND ARRIVAL

Emirates airlines must be one of the best in the world, that's if you manage to find a bargain priced ticket. This Boeing 777 had the kind of leg room we expected back in the good old days before the likes of Ryan emerged. Anyway, nice food and chatty friendly staff and a choice of over 100 inflight movies. 

The night spent at Dubai airport gave me a lot of time to take a look at this glitzy modernistic hub. Didn't realize how big Emirates is. But as a shopping centre it also beats almost any mall. 

Then in the baking mid afternoon sun the plane set down in Lusaka airport. No disappointment at all, its just as I imagined an African airport would be. The low rise shabby functional building named after Zambia's founding father was stinking hot as I queued with countless others for an instant visa, which was readily granted in exchange for 50 USD. 

This is the target of the last 30 hours of travel. The Paseli hostel is just as friendly as I thought it would be. So far, including the taxi driver who took me here, I think the people here are nice are as friendly as anywhere else in the world. http:/Paseli Hostel
Its been a long day and so must stop here to get some relaxation in the cool of the evening, with vast amounts of tea. D

THE REAL AFRICA

Sub Saharan Africa is for me the real Africa which has been but a dream, until now. Of course my school days lessons long, long ago, when Zambia was called Northern Rhodesia, have left an impression. No longer a colony of Britain, since 1964, Zambia will for sure be another world. 

So, heading down to Lusaka on December 3rd and returning home at Christmas. I don't know of any flights from Europe to Africa that could be called 'cheap', but am sure that this expense will be justified. Clicking on that 'buy' icon is always a highly stressful moment, there is no going back, only forward.

This randomly picked image of an Emirates plane might liven things up a bit. Also have made a tentative plan to stay at this highly recommended hostel in Lusaka for 4 nights at least. I always think its better to get used to the country before the wandering begins. 

http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Paseli-

Not too sure what to do after that exactly but a trip down to Livingstone is definitely on the cards. According to a recent BBC business report, Zambian railways are seriously under funded. A bumpy ride from all accounts but the only way I'd like to do it. 

http://www.seat61.com/Zambia.htm#Livingstone - Lusaka

Update. Had it from a good source that the trains are not operating now. Great pity. Maybe too many trains have been falling off the tracks.

Looking at the map of this sizable land locked country, it does have a lot of interesting neighbours. Border crossing accorded by officialdom, can be tedious and time consuming, but it might not be that way on the spot, at a border.  

Who could possibly go to this part of the world without seeing that gigantic curtain of water called Victoria Falls (map C) , and less than 20 min from Livingstone. 

Also there is a wild life park quite close to Livingstone, but maybe a bus ride somewhere might also be a way of seeing those well known zoo animals wandering in their natural environment. 

As well as that, of course, some of those simple, and very poor, African villages. The massive Kariba dam and lake is no more than 3 hr from Lusaka on the border with Zimbabwe. There is a lot of contradictory information about travelling within the country so I'll have to wait and see.





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